golf-clubs-share

AUG. 3, 2009 - Ping Golf staged its largest product launch ever with the introduction of two lines of clubs, called the G15 and the i15, each of which includes drivers, fairway woods, hybrids and irons. On the following pages you'll find photos of each new model from the two lines, plus a little info about each. Keep in mind that the Ping G15 series is aimed at golfers seeking maximum forgiveness and high-launch attributes; the i15 series is aimed at golfers who want more workability.
All clubs in the G15 and i15 series debut at retail in mid-August, 2009. More general details about the series are available on the final page of this product tour.

The Ping G15 driver comes in four standard lofts (9 degrees, 10.5, 12 and 13.5), plus three lofts in a draw version (9, 10.5 and 12). Stock shafts are the Ping-designed TFC149D and the Aldila Serrano. The MSRP is $350.

The Ping G15 driver is longer front-to-back, with an ultra-thin crown. An external sole weight helps lower the center of gravity and engineer higher launch properties.

The Ping i15 driver is fade-biased (designed with an open face angle) with a traditional pear-shaped clubhead. Internal weighting properties are designed to reduce spin, and the hosel is slightly set back from the clubhead to promote better control and tour-preferred trajectories. The i15 driver is sometimes referred to as the "Black Beauty" because of its dark, titanium carbon finish.

The Ping i15 driver is available in lofts of 8, 9.5 and 11 degrees. The stock shafts are the Ping-designed TFC700D and the UST AXIVcore Tour Red 69. The MSRP is $405.

The Ping G15 fairway woods have an elongated face (toe to heel) and a low profile in their stainless steel heads, with an external weight pad in the sole to help target a higher trajectory and increased forgiveness.
Four lofts are available in the standard model: 3-wood (15.5 degrees), 4-wood (17), 5-wood (18.5) and 7-wood (21.5). A draw model is also available in lofts of 15.5, 17 and 18.5 degrees.

The stock shafts are the Ping-designed TFC149F and the Aldila Serrano. MSRP is $230 each.

The Ping i15 fairway woods feature low-profile stainless steel clubheads, slightly elongated from heel to toe, and designed for better players seeking workability from a variety of playing conditions. Internal weighting is engineered to decrease spin and produce a lower, more penetrating ball flight.

Available models are the 3-wood (14 degrees loft), 3+ (15.5) and 5-wood (18.5). Stock shafts are the Ping-designed TFC700F and the UST Mamiya AXIVcore Tour Red 79. MSRP is $265 each.

The Ping G15 fairway woods have an elongated face (toe to heel) and a low profile in their stainless steel heads, with an external weight pad in the sole to help target a higher trajectory and increased forgiveness.

Four lofts are available in the standard model: 3-wood (15.5 degrees), 4-wood (17), 5-wood (18.5) and 7-wood (21.5). A draw model is also available in lofts of 15.5, 17 and 18.5 degrees.

The stock shafts are the Ping-designed TFC149F and the Aldila Serrano. MSRP is $230 each.





The Ping G15 hybrids are, the company says, its most forgiving and longest hybrid to date. A large, internal weight pad in the toe bumps up the clubs' perimeter weighting.

The clubheads are stainless steel with an iron-style face, and the hosel design is engineered to move the center of gravity closer to the face.

The Ping G15 hybrids are available in five lofts: 17 degrees, 20, 23, 27 and 31. The stock shafts are the Ping-designed AWT steel shaft, the Ping-designed TFC149H graphite shaft, and the Aldila Serrano graphite. MSRP is $160 each with steel shaft, or $185 with graphite shaft.

Better players might prefers hybrids of a traditional shape and size, and that's what the Ping i15 hybrids are. The are designed to offer a high MOI but with a tour-preferred more boring trajectory.

Lofts are 17, 20 and 23 degrees. Stock shafts are the Ping-designed AWT steel, the Ping-designed TFC700H graphite, and the UST Mamiya AXIVcore Tour Red 85 Hybrid graphite. The MSRP is $180 each with steel shaft, or $210 each with graphite shaft.

The Ping G15 irons come in 3-9, plus pitching wedge, U-wedge (gap wedge), sand wedge and lob wedge. The are available in steel shafts (stock: Ping AWT) and graphite shafts ((TFC 149i). The MSRP is $107.50 per club with steel shafts or $135 per club with graphite shafts.
These are the high-MOI, high-launch game improvement irons in the arsenal of Ping's new club series. Stainless steel clubheads incorporate "custom tuning ports" (CTP) in the cavity backs, increasing the perimeter weighting. A thinner clubface allows more weight to be moved to the toe, helping with mis-hits, and the Ping G15 irons also boast wider soles.

These irons have stronger lofts than more traditionally designed Ping iron sets, but the company says the low and deep center of gravity keeps the launch angle high.

A progressive set aimed at better players who desire workability, the Ping i15 irons have long irons with larger, more forgiving clubheads, transitioning through the mid-irons into the short irons with smaller clubheads for greater control on approach shots.
The mid-irons in the set also include a tungsten weight insert in the toe, increasing forgiveness in the middle of the set.

The Ping i15 irons are available in 3-9 plus pitching wedge. Stock shafts are the Ping-designed AWT steel and the TFC 149i graphite. MSRP is $115 per club with steel shafts, or $142.50 per club with graphite shafts.

As a reminder, the new G15 series clubs by Ping are targeted at golfers who prioritize game-improvement features such as high MOI and high-launch engineering; the i15 series clubs are targeted at golfers who like to work the ball and favor a lower, tour-preferred mid-trajectory.

All the clubs featured on this and previous pages come with Ping's color-codes to help with fitting, 12 color codes total designating lie angles. Multiple custom shafts are available, and the Ping grips come in six sizes.

For more information on the G15 and i15 series from Ping, visit www.clubgolfsale.com

See also:

http://www.clubgolfsale.com/goods-445-Ping+G15+Irons.html

There IS a technique for finding the center of gravity on your club face. Finding the center of gravity is crucial to your success and CONSISTENCY! I would rather swing the golf club 85 miles per hour and hit the center of gravity than swing 95 miles an hour out on the toe of the golf club.

The purpose of any iron shot is to hit the ball straight. We must also move the ball a specific distance. What good does it do to swing perfectly, (as far a club head speed is concerned) for a five iron shot to travel let's say 180 yards, and then hit the ball on the toe or the heel and only travel 165 yards. Same goes for the driver. Hitting the ball right on the center of gravity of your driver will not only add distance but also accuracy putting you in position to attack the green with an aggressive approach from a good lie in the fairway.

Today there are computers and strobe lights that are used to find the center of gravity on any golf club. Some of these studies are done by independent companies, (yea right). You also might not be able to count on the information the manufacturer gives you about where the center of gravity is on their golf club. In fact, changing the grip or bending the lie angle can change the center of gravity and balance point of the golf club. As cookie cutter as the manufacturers try to make their golf clubs today, there still can be a discrepancy from club to club within a set.

Here's my method, (it might seem like Cuban engineering and it is, but it has worked for touring pros for many years and still works today). Hold the clubface up close to your ear and bounce a golf ball off the face. Bounce it all around the club face. You'll notice a different sound and a different bounce off different positions on the face of the golf club. Of course we haven’t mentioned that hitting the ball off the center of gravity also creates additional torque that will open or close the club face and send your shots off line.

Continue to bounce the ball until you find one spot that seems to sound the best and you get a better bounce off the face of the club and the club face doesn't wiggle as much, (torque) in your hand. On most golf clubs, the center of gravity will not be the exact center of the club face. It should be slightly inside of center.

Once you find what you think is the center of gravity put some face tape on your club face. You can buy some at most golf stores or go on line to a company called Longshot and buy it by the roll. If you're serious about your golf game you should be checking yourself for centeredness of hit constantly so you will use up the roll faster than you think.

The driver is especially crucial. Don't fall for the gag the golf club companies tell you about having a bigger sweet spot. Bravo Sierra! Center of gravity is center of gravity! You may need to set up your driver at address with the ball appearing to be a little inside of center to get your eye used to hitting the ball where you're suppose to. Most golfers don't realize that they hit the ball out on the toe with their driver.

My suggestion is to get some face tape, find the center of gravity, hit balls until you can get your contact as close to the center of gravity as you can. If you find you're hitting on the toe try choking up on the golf club. If that doesn't work try taking a shorter swing. You may be surprised at how far you hit it with a smaller swing and you'll be more consistent. If you're still hitting on the toe you might be swinging over the top and have your club face open. If you're hitting the heel constantly you might be swinging too shallow or too inside out. Or you could be rolling the golf club open on the takeaway.

In the game of golf, strength is most often associated with distance, how far you hit the ball. Although it feels good to send your tee shot high and far, strength training for golf is important for reasons other than extra distance. First and foremost, strength (together with flexibility) provides the foundation for a more efficient, reliable golf swing, two qualities better players share. An efficient golf swing, or any athletic movement for that matter, requires some degree of stability, power, balance and coordination. And, guess what? Strength training provides a foundation for these. In other words, you can’t improve your club head speed without first increasing stability and power. And you can’t optimize your power without sufficient balance and coordination. And in order to maintain it for 18 holes, you need endurance. A comprehensive, golf specific strength training program, when combined with flexibility training, will therefore promote a more efficient and reliable golf swing, increase your endurance, and not to be overlooked, will reduce the risk of injury.

1. Efficiency: probably one of the more important results of strength training is improved efficiency. Strength in our legs, hips, trunk and arms, which make up the ‘links’ that connect the ‘kinetic chain’ that is our body, provides a stable base of support between each link. This allows the forces we generate throughout the swing to be more efficiently transferred from one link to the other and into the club head (and golf ball) with more power and control but with less effort and less stress on the body. A more efficient swing also contributes to the following:

2. A more reliable swing: strength training improves our ability to maintain our posture throughout the swing. Dynamic postural strength (combined with flexibility), provides a more consistent axis of rotation throughout the golf swing and allows for more precise coordination of the legs and arms with our core. Improved postural strength also promotes better balance throughout the swing.

3. Endurance: strength training improves our muscular endurance which delays the onset of fatigue. Fatigue will cause a breakdown in one or more links within the chain and will lead to any number of faults such as loss of posture and timing, which isn’t conducive to an efficient or reliable swing.

4. Injury prevention: improved efficiency and endurance, as described above, greatly reduces the risks of injury. Strong muscles, tendons, ligaments and connective tissue improves our strength and tissue resistance in addition to our joint mechanics, improving the body’s ability to absorb and distribute the stress of the golf swing, especially throughout the spine.

Anybody can benefit from a golf specific strength training program but everybody is different. Juniors, seniors, men, women and people with a history of injury each have strengths and weaknesses that need to be addressed. Your program should be balanced, focused and incorporate as many golf specific movement patterns as possible. Balance includes utilizing both sides of the body and targets the small muscle groups, such as the rotator cuff in the shoulder, as well as the large muscle groups, such as those in the legs, hips and back. While most of our strength and power is generated from the more familiar larger muscles, the less recognized smaller muscle groups are important because they act as “stabilizers”, anchoring one or more links together to provide a firm base of support for the larger muscles to pull from. This allows the larger muscles to work more efficiently. Weak and/or tight stabilizers reduce the strength, power and efficiency of the larger muscles. Utilizing golf specific exercises trains golf specific movement patterns so you are training coordination and balance in addition to strength (but this doesn’t mean that isolation exercises aren’t effective). Focusing on the purpose of each exercise and each workout and how it relates to your game will keep it practical and more fun.

In short, an efficient and reliable swing are two qualities that better players share despite their individual styles or swing types. Complement your lessons with a comprehensive conditioning program that includes flexibility and strength (don’t forget the cardio) and your swing will become more efficient and reliable, improving your consistency, balance and power while reducing your risk of injury.

But strength training also provides stability and improves our coordination. Strength in our legs, hips, back, shoulders and arms, which make up the links that connect our kinetic chain, provides a stable base of support for each succeeding link to work off. This allows the forces we generate throughout the golf swing to be transferred through each link to the club head and golf ball in a more efficient and coordinated manner. Improved efficiency yields greater power with less effort and less stress on the body. Core strength (strength in our trunk and hips) is important because it provides the foundation for the extremities to move on. The more stable and efficient our trunk and hips, the more efficient our extremities are. It doesn’t matter how fast you can swing a golf club if the foundation on which you are swinging is not stable enough to control the path of the golf club.

Address: The process of placing the club behind the ball and taking a stance in preparation of hitting it.
Alignment: Having the shoulders, hips, knees and feet in proper alignment with each other.
Aim: Having the shoulders, hips, knees and feet properly aligned and pointed in the same direction, usually at a 90-degree angle to the target.
Backspin: The spin of a ball where the forward area of the ball rotates over the top area of the ball causing the ball’s forward movement to slow on impact.
Backswing: The start of the swing as the club moves away from the target.
Ball Flight: The path and trajectory of a ball while in the air.
Closed Club Face: Occurs when the club face is turned slightly counterclockwise
within the swing path. Can cause the ball to hook.
Club Face: The front of the club, which makes contact with the ball.
Compensation: A movement for the purpose of overcoming another flawed motion.
Divot: The mark left in the fairway or rough, caused by the removal of turf by an iron. Indicates the [proper] descending blow of an iron.
Downhill Lie: The angle caused by the ball being on a downward sloping hill.
Draw: The flight of a ball where it bends slightly to the inside, relative to the swing.
Fade: The flight of a ball where it bends slightly to the outside, relative to the swing.
Flier Lie: The lie of a ball on fluffy grass, which causes the ball to pop up more quickly than expected.
Green: The manicured portion of the hole where the cup resides.
Grip: The rubber, plastic or leather sheath on the shaft.
Heel: Where the club head is attached to the shaft.
Hook: The flight of a ball where it bends sharply to the inside, relative to the swing.
Inside Path: The path of the club when it is inside the plane.
Lie: How the ball is sitting (good, bad, flier, etc.)
Lie Angle: The angle of the club shaft in relation to the sole of the club head.
Loft: The face angle relative to the sole of the club head.
Open Club Face: Occurs when the club face is turned slightly clockwise within the swing path. Can cause the ball to slice.
Outside Path: The path of the club when it is outside the plane.
Par: The number of strokes designated by the golf course for each hole and tallied for a total amount. Most 18-hole courses are between 70 and 72.
Pivot: The turning or “coiling” of the upper body during the swing.
Pull: Ball flight characterized by going straight and left of the target
Pull Hook: Ball flight characterized by starting left of the target and bending/curving even more.
Push: Ball flight characterized by going straight and right of the target
Push Slice: Ball flight characterized by starting right of the target and bending/curving even more.
Shank: Hitting the ball off the heel area of the club, which causes the ball to squirt low and to the inside.
Slice: The flight of a ball where it bends sharply to the outside, relative to the swing.
Square Club Face: Occurs when the club face is perpendicular to the swing path.
Sweet Spot: The area on the face of a club where the impact is most beneficial, as designed by the manufacturer.
Toe: The outside of the club, or part of the club head opposite the heel.
Unplayable Lie: A lie where the ball cannot be played due to natural obstructions. See the Rules for details on penalties.

Over the winter is an excellent time to make lasting changes in your swing movement. Why? Because it takes slow deliberate repetitions to teach your body to change motions or patterns which you probably would not be willing to do during the season because you want to play.

I once saw a very rare video of Ben Hogan. I tried to get it from the person that showed it to me but he wouldn’t even let me boot up a copy. It’s hard to find. The video showed Ben Hogan out at the beach swinging in slow motion, and I do mean slow motion.

He was performing his swing over and over again in a motion so slow, well I tried to mimic it myself and it took me about a minute and half to make one swing. Now that’s slow! The purpose was to feel the swing at every point and communicate to the mind what the position felt like slowly and deliberately.

Most of the tips I will give you in this report will be similar in nature. No golf ball needed. Just your golf club and a position far enough away from any lamps! Of course I will practice close to my wife’s cat in case I get lucky and cut a divot down his back. Rrrraoow!

1) You Must Have a Good Grip.

Most golf professionals have a golf club along side they’re sofa. After all, we do have to make any television viewing productive. When a silly commercial message comes on you hold the golf club in your hands right up in front of your face so you so you can see your grip. Grip the golf club slowly.

Notice where your fingers are and how it feels to you. You need to grip the golf club in your fingers. If you have one of those training grips that would be a good idea as a reference. One commercial use the training grip, and next commercial use the golf club. Compare the too and keep doing it until the golf club grip feels and looks very similar to the training grip.

Once you think you have the two grips feeling similar then stand up and make a stance. After you make a stance lift your grip up in front of your face again so you can see and feel the proper grip.

2) Drills for Your Address Position.

It would be best if you could do this in front of a full length mirror. You’ll also need a helper the first time to help put masking tape on the mirror.

Stand before the mirror as in the picture below. Then place the tape where I have the lines drawn. If your address position does not match the one in the picture below, please put your masking tape according to my picture and now follow those lines and angles in setting up to a golf ball.

Step back and set up to the ball again once the tape is on the mirror. Once you think you’re set up properly swivel your head up so you can see where you are. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LIFT YOUR BACK OUT OF POSITION! Just slowly swivel
your head. If the angles are perfect step back and do it again. You can’t do this too much. If you can’t set up to the golf ball perfectly every time, how can you expect to produce the same ball flight every time.

Next get to work on your down line view. Look at the picture below and follow the same procedures. The big key here is the 90 degree spine angle found in every successful golfer.

3) Top of the Back Swing Position.

Remaining in the down line view make a back swing, hold the top of the back swing position, turn very slowly and swivel your head looking at the mirror to see if you have lifted your spine out of position. You MUST maintain spine angle to be consistent! You may need to feel as though your chest is working downward on the back swing in order to stay level. Many golf professionals talk of the back swing as being down hill.

I’ve shown you a perfect example here in the picture comparison to a touring professional.

Now go for the frontal view and see if you remain in the proper position at the top of the back swing. Also notice if your head moves slightly backward at the top of the back swing. Moving your head laterally if fine just avoid any upward or downward movement.

4) Starting the Down Swing.

Once you’re at the top of the back swing position, stop and look at the mirror, then very very very slowly start your arms straight down toward the ground while holding your body perfectly still. The more you do this the better.

The arms and golf club have more territory to cover on their way to the impact position so they must get a head start on the body. This drill will really help in
your creating a feeling of the arms moving first on the downswing without the body helping or shifting laterally prematurely. An early turn of the body is the killer of many a good golf swing.

5) The Finish.

Go ahead a make a full golf swing now. Once you make a swing hold your finish. If you have trouble holding your finish position you have a problem somewhere in your swing motion.

Once holding the finish swivel your head over to the mirror and see if your back is nice and straight and that you’re balanced on your front foot. Any bending in your spine, (the reverse “C”) is not desirable.

Of course once you work on these drills there is nothing wrong with going to a driving range that is covered and heated and hitting a few golf balls too see how the drills are effecting your ball flight. With today’s covered ranges it certainly provides an opportunity earlier golfers never had.

Follow these five easy steps, hit some balls in the meantime and sneak out for a round or two if you get some decent weather and I will assure you that you will see a significance difference next spring.

Transferring your perfect consistent driving range warm up swing to the golf course is a typical dilemma and a frustration of many a golfer. You’re killing it on the range, everything seems perfect. You’re convinced that you will have your best round ever and then right on the first tee you yank it out of bounds! Some golfers can play well for the first three or four holes, only to loose their rhythm on the fifth hole and throw away a great start. Others play like a dog the first four holes, finally relax and start to play better. Does this sound like you? If so there’s help.

Before anything, you do need to see your swing by way of slow motion video analysis with a recognized PGA golf professional to see if there is a major swing fault in your swing that might be making it difficult for you to control your swing on the golf course. I offer lessons with video analysis right over the internet. All you need is a camera and your home computer. For details go to www.bobbylopezgolf.com. With that said, there is a technique or sequence of events that help a golfer control their swing tempo and emotions on the golf course. Of course nothing in golf is “always”, but if you’re doing the right things you’ll have your share of success.

First off I like to begin my day with the short game warm up first. Most golf courses are not designed for my kind of warm up. They have the putting green near the first tee and the driving range across the way.

After doing my short game work, (see my special report on golf game warm up) I head for the driving range with about 20 minutes to spend.

I try to end my last swing with my Driver with just enough time to get the first tee comfortably, (make sure it’s a good driver shot or hit another one until you do). I want my last swing to be, the first thing
I can relate to when I tee it up.

You need to understand that when you hit a good shot, all the mechanics of your swing must have all come together at just the right time or sequence at impact, at the specific rhythm or swing speed you had on the range. Once most golfers get to the golf course, they begin to increase the RPM on their swing so that the synchronization of your swing falls apart. Resulting in a club face that is out of alignment with the path, or maybe your body out of position from swinging faster and harder or even slower.

At the first tee, picture in your mind that exact swing speed or rhythm you had on the last great tee shot you hit at the range only moments ago. If anything attempt to swing the golf club a notch or two slower than on the range. Don’t over do it, I said a notch or two. Swinging way too slow will have the same poor result as swinging too fast. Remember, having the arms and body out of sync is the problem. Your swing operates at a specific speed where all the parts seem to fall into place. Find that swing speed or rhythm and you got it made.

As the game progresses you may be in further risk of swinging harder or slower. Having a couple of bad holes can affect your swing speed tremendously. Depending on your personality some golfers get angry and swing harder. That only leads to further damage and a totally lost day.

One common flaw is mixing target golf with swing mechanics. Concentrate on swing mechanics on the driving range not on the golf course. I’m referring to driving range work for your swing, not the driving range warm before you play. Driving range warm up before play is for flexibility, tempo and rhythm not swing mechanics.

When working on swing mechanics on the driving range do not concern yourself with accuracy. You may experience erratic ball flight when making a swing improvement for 20 to 30 days or more. Once you head to the golf course let the practice on rebuilding your swing melt in to your golf game without having to think about it on the golf course.

Develop a pre-shot routine. Maintaining a consistent pre-shot routine on your range warm up and carrying it over to the golf course is key to your controlling your tempo and rhythm on the golf course.

I use breathing exercises to try and keep myself level minded and level thinking throughout the round. Stay away from coffee, anything with sugar like orange juice, sodas, even diet sodas because of the caffeine. What you eat or drink can greatly effect your swing tempo, rhythm and all around attitude.

Be patient on the golf course. What difference does it make if you bogey the first hole or the last, it’s still a bogey. Forget it. Keep playing, stay within your rhythm and hope for the best. Don’t force your game, like a young quarterback trying to force a ball in coverage and getting intercepted.

Getting emotional over a bad hole will only make things worse. Ben Hogan was probably the greatest at controlling his emotions on the golf course. Controlling your emotions doesn’t mean you can’t have fun. Stay relaxed, concentrate on your swing rhythm not your mechanics, (that’s for the driving range) and enjoy the day. After all that’s why you play golf!

You may want to consider taking advantage of our One Day To A Better Golf Game Program. We do it all in one day! Short game, video instruction on the range, lunch with the pro, on course instruction with a PGA pro covering everything from club selection to alignment to controlling your swing on the golf course.

All low handicappers and golfers who are serious about shooting the lowest scores possible consider flex in their clubs. It makes the science of hitting the ball so much easier, which translates to more enjoyment on the course.
Now, when I say "flex", I am referring to the ability of a golf shaft to bend as forces are applied to it during the golf swing. Just go ahead and “waggle” your club a little and see how much the shaft bends and you will get an idea of what “flex” is.

There are five basic categories or types of shaft flex:

1. Extra Stiff
2. Stiff
3. Regular
4. Senior
5. Ladies

Why is the flex in your shaft important? Well, when you have a flex that doesn't match the needs of your swing, the result is the clubface being misaligned at impact, causing your shots to go off-target. Not good. To be more specific, your flex will impact how straight you hit the ball, how high or low it goes and how long or short it travels.

Keep in mind one very important thing about the shaft of your club and its flex. As the shaft flexes throughout the swing, the position of the clubhead will change. This means you need a shaft that will properly match your swing type and speed so that it can deliver the clubface back to a square position at impact.

For example, if the flex of your clubs is too stiff, the clubface will tend to be open, sending the ball in a slicing direction. Or, if you have clubs with a shaft flex that is not very stiff, the clubhead will be tend to be closed at impact, resulting in a hook.

Choose Your Flex Type
I always am experimenting with different shafts and flex types because I know that if my swing is on plane and accurate, my shaft flex type can be adversely affecting my results.

Here’s what I do:

• Your driver will be your best gauge on which flex you need. Not 100% accurate but the best club to use for this purpose. If you can carry you driver 250 yards or more, go with Stiff; 230-250 yards, Regular; 200-230 yards, Senior; less than 200 yards, Ladies. What about Extra Stiff? I can count the number of people on one hand that actually need or use an Extra Stiff shaft. Only guys like John Daily and Long Drive Champions need that type.

• If shots with your driver tend to go left, you might benefit from a stiffer flex; if your drives go right, you might benefit from a softer flex.

• If you know (or have been told) you have a very smooth swing, you might benefit from a softer flex even if you swing very fast. Further, if you have a swing that gets jerky at the top, especially starting the downswing, you’ll probably need a stiffer shaft.

The Best (and most accurate way) to Choose Flex Type
If you are not comfortable determining which flex you should choose on your own, go see your local pro at the course you play at or your driving range. This will take
a lot of the guesswork out of the equation.

A good pro will take a lot of measurements, watch your swing, measure your swing speed, watch your ball flight and be able to tell you with certainty which flex is right for you.

What you want to do is to experiment by hitting lots of different clubs and watching the effects on your shots of changing shaft flex.

If you find a flex that feels good and produces a good ball flight, there's a good chance that's the right flex for you.

And lastly, here’s the best advice I can give on choosing flex. Most high-handicappers (especially men) tend to over-swing. If this describes you (and you know who you are), you should consider a softer flex to help you slow your swing down. Slowing down the swing will certainly produce more accurate shots and better distance control.